Like many other New Mexicans, we decided to visit Jemez Springs for our Labor Day Weekend. Jemez Springs has long been on my bucket list so it was great to finally visit. It did not disappoint. This is a green jewel in the heart of New Mexico.
From Las Cruces, we followed I25 all the way to Hwy 4 past Bernalillo. That highway led us to Red Rocks and the Walatowa visitor center. The red rocks are incredible, a violent contrast against green mesquite and yellow desert. Stalls set up against the striking backdrop of red bluffs house a market selling Native goods. We bought some bread.
From there, we ascended into the mountains while rain gushed down. Rivulets of red mud flowed across the narrow two-lane highway. The trees were vibrantly green against the dark cloudy sky.
We passed homes in various states of repair and finally exited the reservation and reached Jemez Springs. The village is quaint and you can tell its economy is built on tourism, as the only businesses are inns and restaurants/bars.
Shortly past the village, we reached the fabled Soda Dam. The Soda Dam was created by centuries of calcium bicarbonate from the Jemez River, building up into a giant lumpy formation that is 300 feet wide and 50 feet tall and still growing. There is no formal parking area, just a little pulloff from the highway. Despite the tight fit, we crammed our SUV in.
Shivering against the 60-degree temp which felt cold after leaving Las Cruces, we hiked up to the little waterfall gushing loudly inside the dam and took some pictures. There was quite a crowd so we had to wait to get pictures and also to climb into the little alcove notched in the rocks. A bad odor of brackish water arose from the whole place and my son was upset he sank his foot into a very smelly and cold puddle.
We wanted to stay at Jemez Falls Campground but it was super packed. So we found a spot at Redondo Campground instead. Redondo was a perfectly satisfactory substitute to the Jemez Falls Campground.
Shaded by tall ponderosas, we set up our tent and enjoyed the ocean-like sounds of the breeze in the trees. Despite being nearly full, the campground was relatively quiet. I enjoyed the sounds of other families having fun and playing catch or practicing archery around us. The vault toilets were exceptionally clean despite the crowd, as well. The camp host was delightful and fosters dogs who need socializing, so my kids enjoyed socializing her young Lab pup who is up for adoption.
A sign at the entrance asks for information about Ingrid Colleen Lane, a missing person from the Jemez area. She was staying at the Bodhi Manda Zen Center in Jemez Springs and went to hike a mountain nearby on October 15, 2023, when she disappeared. Her vehicle was found on Forest Road 144 near Los Alamos, with a broken back window and an unopened, unactivated burner phone inside. Two hunters came forward and said she had flagged them down on October 15 and needed air in her tires. They offered her a ride but she refused, saying she intended to reach the top of a mountain. She has never been seen again and it’s been almost a year. Her husband misses her dearly.
Feeling hungry, we returned to Jemez Springs and enjoyed even more views on the way of Battleship Rock, Hummingbird Music Camp, and other sites along the way. We got underwhelming food from Los Ojos Restaurant and Saloon. Online reviews sing its praises, but we were not impressed by the lackluster mushroom Swiss burger and even more lackluster red enchiladas. Maybe it was just an off day.
From there, we wound back toward Red Rocks to the 376 junction to visit the Gilman Tunnels. The way there was breathtakingly pretty, plus we passed this spooky/funny place:
Apparently this is a haunted attraction. They have a hilarious Facebook page, Jemez Haunted Graveyard. I wish we had checked it out because after this Halloween, they are apparently closing down.
The road soon turns to one lane. We fortunately only encountered one other vehicle coming the opposite way and we were able to pull over to let them pass.
The Gilman tunnels are two tunnels, blasted through rock. We honked through them, as the kids screamed joyously at the echoes.
On the other side, we were treated to incredible views of sheer rocky cliffs and rushing rapids below. Only 3 other vehicles were parked in the overlook and we were able to take pictures without anyone in our way. The rapids and the cliffs were stunning, but also activating of my fear of heights. Yikers!
Back at the campsite, we ate and then hiked a nice trail for about a mile from the campground. We turned back as raindrops started to tickle us. The trail was lined with asters, common evening primrose, black-eyed Susans, Indian paintbrush, and many other wildflowers. We found several massive toadstools, too. My kids loved exploring nature and picking asters for me.
We enjoyed a fire, s’mores, and stories in the gathering darkness. The smoke from all the campsites around us mingled between the trees, creating a ghostly atmosphere. Other campers laughed and blasted Mexican music well into the night, finally stopping around 2 am or so.
The night was slightly rough. I woke up with my nose smarting from the cold. My daughter crawled into my sleeping bag for warmth around 3 am. Distant thunder and lightning woke me up every now and then, too. I was awake by the first blush of sunrise yet still felt refreshed and alive. Sleeping in the elements does that.
We hastily broke down camp and drove a quarter mile up Hwy 4 to hike out to the San Diego Canyon overlook. The views of the rugged mountains and the highway way down below were stunning. The hike is extremely short on a paved trail that is handicap accessible. Someone evidently had a romantic moment out there, as the entire area was littered with rose petals. It is a romantic spot.
Then we drove up the highway to the Jemez Falls Campground and parked at the trailhead. It was a brief quarter-mile hike on wide, easy, smooth trail to the falls.
The last hundred or so feet of the hike became rocky as it sloped to the falls. We could hear the falls long before we reached them.
The Jemez Falls were hard to see through all the trees and my photos don’t show them at all. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the hike and the views. There is a little overlook area thronged by a short stone wall and a metal divider. It is easy to get past it to get closer to the treacherous edge, but we respected the divider.
After taking in the falls, we returned to the SUV and drove on to Fenton Lake. My husband cast a fishing rod and the kids and I explored. The lake is a small pond by northern or eastern standards, but in New Mexico where water is scarce, it is a sizable fishing lake.
A chipmunk was standing on its hindlegs on the cattle guard as we left Fenton Lake. He was playing dead I think because he didn’t even flinch as we drove within mere inches of him. Cute little guy.
Due to having small children, we didn’t get to go to the hot springs. Someday I plan to visit Manby Hot Springs, as well as some other famous ones in the area. I also hope to do more vigorous hikes out there. We also didn’t explore the historic ruins because we aren’t really history buffs, but you can easily see them from Highway 4. There is so much to the Jemez, that you can’t fit it all in with one day. But this visit was nevertheless wonderful. I imagine we will return many more times.